“Where are you staying?” the customs officer asked sharply. I quickly pulled out my iPhone and showed her the address of the youth hostel I had booked in Dublin. She meticulously noted the address in her notepad.

“How long will you be in Ireland? When are you leaving? Why don’t you have a return ticket? Who are you traveling with? How much money do you have in your bank account?” Her questions came fast and severe, each one like a sharp jab, leaving little room for my responses. Fortunately, my answers seemed to satisfy her, and with a final stamp in my passport, she waved me through. Welcome to Ireland!

The encounter left me quite shaken—such an intense welcome was a first for me at any customs! Thankfully, that proved to be the only negative experience during my stay. The Irish themselves were nothing but warm, generous, and kind.

Before my travel partner, Jennifer—an old colleague from my banking days in San Francisco—arrived, I had a few days to myself in Dublin. I spent my time wandering the city, enjoying plenty of Guinness, and relaxing. Jen, eager for a break, had arranged to meet me in Ireland and travel together for two weeks. She had planned everything, from our time in the north to renting a car to explore the south, which was a welcome change since I was tired of planning!

During my solo days, I also met up with a friend I’d made in Amsterdam who was coincidentally in Dublin. We enjoyed dinners, Guinness, and the live music in the pubs of Temple Bar—some performances were better than others, but it was all great fun.

Jen arrived on August 3, and we spent a couple of days in Dublin, taking in the city and going on day hikes. That Friday, we headed to Belfast by train. Immediately, I could feel a difference; the air was tense, and instead of Euros, they used Pounds, something I hadn’t realized due to Northern Ireland being part of the UK.

Our first night in Belfast coincided with a Food & Music Festival in a large park near our hostel—full of delicious food and fantastic music. The next day, we took a black taxi tour, a political journey through Belfast’s recent turbulent history. The tour was eye-opening; I was unaware of the extent of The Troubles. Our taxi driver, from the Catholic community, shared personal and heart-wrenching stories. The murals and stories of past violence deeply moved me.

We continued to Derry, where we took another tour focusing on the city’s political history. The guide, about my age, had grown up amid the conflict, and his personal accounts added a profound depth to our understanding. He described tanks rolling down the streets and the community’s acts of silent solidarity against the military presence, which was incredibly powerful to witness.

Our time in Northern Ireland concluded with a day trip to the Giant’s Causeway, touring the stunning coastal scenery. Despite the beauty, the lingering effects of political unrest cast a slight shadow over our visit.

Leaving Northern Ireland, we headed back to Dublin for a night before picking up our rental car to embark on a week-long road trip through the Republic of Ireland.